Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Watch Maintenance 101

A new watch when purchased is in optimal condition and with correct maintenance can remain that way for years to come.  A watch can be crafted by the most prestigious watch company, but if not taken care of can run into ruin. I have listed a couple of good tips to keep the watch you just purchased from ZULUTIMEZONE.COM in tip top shape:

1) The Watch Crystal - Glass Covering and Protecting the Dial

There are three main types of materials used in covering and protecting the dial.

Offshore Limited Commando Black-Red Chronograph
  •  Acrylic - Inexpensive plastic prone to scratches, but  shallow scratches easily buffed out. Acrylic is used on kids watches and low range fashion watches.
  •  Mineral Crystal - a type of glass, oftentimes heat treated to further harden the surface and increase scratch resistance. Mineral Crystal is relatively cheap and keeps the overall cost of the watch down.  Even hardened mineral crystal are prone to scratches and therefor the precautions ,listed below, must be taken. Mineral crystal is the most widely used crystal on the OFFSHORE LIMITED BRAND found exclusively at ZULUTIMEZONE.COM
  • Sapphire crystal is a transparent form of synthetic corundum , used in high mid range and high range watches. Sapphire crystal is an extremely hard substance: Three times harder than mineral crystal -  9 on the Mohs Scale - silver being 2.5 and a diamond being 10,  thus Sapphire Crystal is scratch resistant but not Scratch Proof. In addition if struck with a sharp blow at a certain angle, sapphire crystal can shatter. Learn more about Sapphire Crystal
 To avoid any type of scratches or damages to your watch crystal follow these guidelines:

a) Wrap your watch in a soft cloth before placing it on a hard surface.

b) When not wearing place your watch in its original box. Do not place your watch in a jewelry box with your other jewelry. Keep in mind diamonds have a Moh of 10, harder than sapphire crystal and thus can scratch the watch.

c) Do not wear your watch with other jewelry on the same hand. For the same reasons listed above.

d) Avoid wearing the watch during high risk activities like rock climbing or bob sledding unless of course you own a watch specifically designed for these type of activities.

e) Avoid scraping your watch against corridor walls or on furniture. Some new man made materials used to make simulated stone surfaces contain incorporated silicon carbide, an extremely hard material that can cause damage to your sapphire crystal.

Even though many watch companies like Seiko and Invicta have developed signature watch crystals claiming exceptional hardness, the above precautions still apply. 

2) Watch Bracelet and Strap Maintenance

a) Metal bracelets should be carefully washed in water. If the bracelet is really grimy use a soft new toothbrush dunked in mild soapy water and gently brush away the dirt. Rinse with water (if your watch is not water resistance be careful to use only a minimal amount of water and do not get the case wet). Dry carefully with a soft cloth. Cases should be wiped gently with a slightly moistened soft cloth and carefully dried.

b) In hot weather, leather straps should be slightly loosened to prevent perspiration absorption. There are two reasons for this: Firstly a tight strap prevents the passage of air flow on the underside of the strap and secondly a tight strap may cause a perspiration rash on the wrist. When your watch becomes wet with perspiration, wipe it dry with a soft cloth. In addition, leather straps may begin to smell from bacteria trapped in the leather - Click here to read a Summer Caution for Leather Strap Watch Wearers.  

c) Finally when taking off your watch leave it in a well ventilated area. Never place it in a sealed air tight container when the watch is still damp with perspiration. Never leave your watch in direct sunlight this may cause your watch strap to fade.

Movement Maintenance - Either Quartz or Mechanical (Automatic or Hand Wound) - Click here to learn more about the definition of a mechanical watch movement.

Automatic mechanical watches:

Gold Piaget Rotor
 These Watches do not require manual winding, but are powered by the gentle swinging motion of ones arm.  This swinging motion moves a rotor or oscillating weight affixed to the back of the watch. The rotor transfers power to wind the mainspring. Thus in order for the watch to keep ticking, one needs to wear the watch everyday or ever second day depending on the power reserve of the watch. (Power reserve is the amount of time a watch can operate without winding).
Take note even though a automatic watch is powered by the natural swinging motion of ones hand, the watch should not need to be shaken vigorously like a cocktail. In addition, avoid undue shocks like dropping the watch on hard surfaces like a granite kitchen counter. Avoid wearing a mechanical watch while playing golf or tennis as arm speeds in excess of 70mph can damage the movement of the watch. Vigorous jagged motions can damage the movement. Many watches have undergone stringent testing and are Certified Chronometers, but still proper care is still necessary.

Listed Below are Maintenance 101 for Automatic Watch Movements:

 a)  If one has not worn the watch in a couple of days and not kept it on a Watch Winder, the watch

b) A Mechanical Watch requires servicing just like an automobile. Although mechanical watches are designed to provide a lifetime of accurate and reliable service, a mechanical watch requires servicing  every three or four years.  This time frame will ensure maximum efficiency and  prevent permanent damage. Every manufacturer has their own specific servicing recommendations for your watch. As a result of the complexity of the mechanisms within the mechanical watch, it is preferable the watch is serviced by an agent authorized by the watch manufacturer. During servicing your watch will be inspected for worn parts which require replacing; checked to see if  lubrication is required, and examined to determine if perspiration, dust or water has seeped into the watch. Dust and water is the most damaging to the watch movement and removal of these elements are crucial.

c) During servicing your watch is opened and the movement removed. If required the movement is taken apart to the very last screw. Each individual part is inspected for wear or tear. Old worn parts are replaced with identical parts. Every part is cleaned, reassembled and lubricated. Then the movement is regulated, so the watch will run with precision. If the watch is water resistant, water tightness is checked and worn cracked gaskets are replaced. The final step is polishing the case and the bracelet. After these steps the watch will be good as new.
d) Quartz Watches require a battery change once every one to two years. If the back of the watch is a snap back type, one can use a blunt knife to remove the cover and change the battery; however, if the watch is the screw back type (noticable by usually 6 equally spaced slots), one may require a special tool to remove the back. Click here for an excellent article on tips for changing your watch battery.
    Take Note: Servicing is crucial as the oil that keeps the watch running breaks down over time. Parts of the watch that are no longer lubricated will cause friction. The problem will be confounded if the friction creates microscopic fine dust that will act as a damaging abrasive to the movement. In addition, the watch case expands in response to periods of hot and cold. This expansion allows dust to enter the case to microscopic fine cracks. Dust is the most detrimental element to the movement of a watch.

    I know what you are thinking. This seems like an awful lot of instructions for a watch; however, most of it you are probably doing anyway. Please bare in mind if you treat your watch with respect it will be your great grand child's heirloom.

    If you have any other tips or personnel experiences. Please feel free to comment. I love feedback.

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